Hermès Birkin Toile Review

It often feels like my love for rare Hermès bags knows no bounds. Although I don’t have an abundance of insanely scarce Hermès finds in my collection, the ultra-rare Hermès pieces I do own (well, ultra-rare even for Hermès standards), all have a unique appeal that speaks for itself. My Hermès Birkin Toile is among this cohort of bags that I feel incredibly honoured to have in my Hermès collection. I have the Birkin 25 in Toile and Black leather and it’s one of my absolute favourites. 

Essentially, Toile is French for canvas and in the world of Hermès, it refers to a bag that’s made from Toile canvas typically with leather trims, or sections of the bag made from leather. Toile versions of bags are among the lesser-known rare Hermès finds out there so conducting a deep dive looking at this style’s key features, place within the Hermès handbag hierarchy and appeal is a good idea! I’m also going to look at other styles that are a part of this branch of Hermès’ family tree, including the Kelly Toile and a cohort of limited-edition Toile versions of bags that would make any Hermès collector swoon. 

Classic Birkin design 

Typical Birkin Retourne construction 

Dual top handles 

Flap opening with classic sangles across top secured by touret turnlock closure 

Accordian-style sides 

Clochette with padlock and key

4 feet on bottom 

Main body made from Toile canvas with contrasting leather upper section, handles, sangles and trims 

Available in a range of Toile canvas and Hermès leather options 

Crafted in France 

There’s no denying that Hermès’ bags are most typically thought of as refined leather styles. When the brand began in 1837, it was leather equestrian accessories that put Hermès’ name on the map. And ever since, it’s been the label’s leather bags like the Birkin and Kelly that have propelled Hermès to new heights within luxury fashion and cemented its position as the Holy Grail bag brand for so many of us. But don’t be fooled into overlooking a notoriously slept on Hermès material – Toile canvas. I’ve spoken extensively about my thoughts on Hermès leathers and exotics (go check out my Complete Guide To Hermès Leathers post if you haven’t already). But it’s important to remember that Hermès leathers are just one kind of material offered within the Hermès cache. 

Toile canvas is one of the lesser-known Hermès materials available – it’s lightweight and more casual than a lot of other options. While it’s true that Toile is frequently used for Hermès’ more casual bags like the Herbag and Garden Party Tote, there are still plenty of Toile versions of the Birkin and Kelly bags which deserve our attention too. 

My Hermès Birkin Toile bag is designed with a leather upper section, handles, sangles and trims while the main body of the bag is made from Toile canvas. This striking contrast is pretty different from many other Hermès designs, and the bag’s Toile canvas body gives it an undeniably more casual feel than the more typical leather Birkin options. This find has been a part of my carefully curated Hermès collection for a while now, and the canvas makes the classic Birkin design feel even more practical. It goes super well with workwear looks plus casual everyday outfits. A blazer, jeans and black leather loafers have pretty much become my uniform when wearing this bag. I also love this combination of Black leather and Palladium hardware that my Birkin Toile 25 has as this mix is pretty rare in my Hermès collection. 

I can’t not mention the durability of Hermès Toile canvas. It’s tightly woven to make it super strong and hard-wearing. It’s worth noting that Hermès Toile is more prone to stains and marks than Hermès leathers and it’s harder to clean (as is to be expected with a canvas over any leather option). However, it does wear very well. I’ve found that even after years of frequent use the Toile on my bag looks nearly new. 

The canvas detail of the design gives it a utility-esque feel. So, naturally, the Hermès Birkin Toile is likened most to the Birkin Cargo. Lucky for you guys, I own both of these styles, each in the 25 size and in pretty similar shades which puts me in a good position to compare these two designs. Let’s start with the similarities. They’re both predominantly made from canvas with leather trims to create a more casual and utility-inspired look than we’re typically used to seeing from Birkin bags. The canvas material is super durable and gives both styles a certain relaxed charm – these are not bags you have to be precious with and they’re ultimately both best suited to casual outfits and wearing during the day. 

However, there are key differences that set these two unique Hermès creations apart. The Birkin Cargo has, as its name would suggest, prominent cargo-style pockets as the focal design feature. While the Birkin Toile has a more simple canvas body with a contrasting leather upper section and trims, creating an altogether more minimalist look and feel. There’s also a lot more leather featured as part of the Birkin Toile’s design which is a big plus if you want a bag that incorporates a greater mix of both leather and canvas. Although there are undeniable similarities between the Birkin Toile and Birkin Cargo, they’re different enough for me to justify having both in my collection. 

You can read my full review of the Birkin Cargo HERE

It’s not just the Birkin that’s been given a canvas makeover. The Hermès Kelly Toile has a similar design ethos to the Birkin variation except the leather details are less prominent, appearing mainly just on the handle, sides, trims and strap. I personally love how the Toile canvas works with the Kelly bag’s rigid structure and famously sophisticated silhouette, and I think it makes a great option if you want a Kelly that feels a little more casual. One of my favourite aspects of the Birkin Toile’s appeal is the striking contrast between the canvas and the leather. This is a lot less noticeable on the Kelly variation simply because there’s less leather featured, which, for me, is a downside to the style. But, it’s good news if you’re considering both the Birkin and Kelly Toile as they each have a very different look so you could find a place for both in your collection. 

Birkin and Kelly Toile bags are rare, even by Hermès’ impossibly high standards. But there are certain versions of these Toile styles that are verified unicorns within the world of Hermès collecting. The Fray Fray, a part-canvas part-leather Birkin complete with Toile frayed edges is among one of the rarest Hermès Toile bags. Plus, there are designs with patterned Toile sections, and even Toile versions of the recently trending cult-favourite Hermès JPG Shoulder Birkin. Another iconic Jean Paul Gaultier design that’s been given the Toile treatment is the famous Shadow Birkin. A Denim Toile and Black Evercalf leather version from 2010 is an ultra-rare find that I’ve seen up for auction. 

Time to wrap up my thoughts. The Birkin Toile is a truly special Hermès find and it’s great if you want something rare yet still minimalist. It’s super easy to style, particularly with casual looks, and this design in the 25 size works as the perfect everyday bag. It makes a great case for Hermès canvas bags … it’s enough to make you want to expand your collection to include more Toile, right? 

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