The whimsical and wonderful world of Hermès often feels like one of fashion’s greatest mysteries. Birkin bait, deciphering which bags have the highest resale value, uncovering each season’s treasure trove of new colours. But one of the trickiest aspects for us Hermès addicts to get our heads around is Hermès leathers. The subtleties, complexities, characteristics, history and reputation of each Hermès leather is about so much more than the initial look. I know how special each of my Hermès bags are to me and the leather is such an important part of my experience with every single piece I own. 

I’ve documented my most used Hermès bags, recent additions to my collection and what I think about new-season colours. So now it’s time to delve into Hermès leathers – with all the information you need in the most digestible way possible. You’ve got the beloved classics, the rare exotics that have become the stuff of Hermès legend, and then there are my personal favourites that are a hugely important aspect of my collection. So whether you’re pondering which leather to choose for your next bag or simply want to continue with your Hermès education (one of the boujiest available, if you ask me), this is the guide for you. 

Now let’s be clear, there are many, many… many Hermès leathers out there so I’ve picked a selection of the most beloved to take a closer look at. From the type of grain and structure to which options I think are best suited to which bags, let’s delve in! 

These classics are the Hermès leathers that you’ve no doubt heard of but perhaps the details remain a little more mysterious than the names. From vintage favourites to the most prominent and popular leathers that return each year, this bunch have earned their renowned reputation.

This leather, often simply known as Box, has quite the legacy. Box Calf really is the OG when it comes to Hermès leathers, with its coveted position as a favourite spanning many decades. It has a super fine grain with a signature smooth, glossy sheen that makes it stand out amongst other classic leathers and it’s prominent amongst vintage Hermès bags, particularly structured styles like the Kelly Sellier.

• Key characteristics – Smooth and glossy finish, stiff structure, formal look
• Pros – Holds shape well over time, beautiful for vintage bags
• Cons – Prone to scratches, can blister when wet, regarded as a high maintenance leather that’s not the most durable

Durable, lightweight and scratch resistant, Chèvre Mysore is one of the most durable Hermès leathers. The house has a few Chèvre (goat) leathers but Chèvre Mysore is one of the most commonly used. It has a large prominent grain which I think gives it a more casual look that’s suited to Birkins, Picotins and Kelly Retourne bags over more structured styles. 

• Key characteristics – Large prominent grain 
• Pros – Scratch-resistant, one of the most durable  
• Cons – Generally more expensive than other options

Clemence, also known as Veau Taurillon Clemence or simply TC, was originally introduced to be used for luggage in 1992, so its durability is a given. It has a prominent textured pebbled grain with a semi-matte finish and a slightly slouchy feel that’s best suited to Birkin bags over Kellys. It’s often confused with Togo leather but is heavier and slouchier, with a slightly larger grain. 

• Key characteristics – Prominent textured pebbled grain, slouchy 
• Pros – Softened feel, scratch-resistant, one of the most durable
• Cons – Heavy, can show water stains

One of my ultimate favourite Hermès leathers, Epsom, is a true classic. It’s heat-printed which essentially means it’s embossed and has a cross-hatched fine grain, making the leather more rigid. This stiff structure means that Epsom leather is incredibly well-suited to structured bags, especially small sizes. You only need to take a look at my collection to understand my penchant for Mini Kellys made from Epsom. It holds its shape very well, is lightweight, durable and easy to clean. One of the most no fuss Hermès leathers available, no question.  

• Key characteristics – Cross-hatched fine grain, rigid structure, holds its shape well
• Pros – Lightweight, durable, easy to clean, more resistant to water than a lot of others, less likely to show scratches, showcases colour well
• Cons – Could be perceived as too rigid, especially for larger bags

Undoubtedly one of the most popular Hermès leathers, Swift has such a classic look and feel. It was previously named Gulliver and discontinued in 1999 but then reintroduced in the early ‘00s (we can only assume by popular demand). It has a fine natural grain with a matte finish and showcases bold, vibrant colours so well (this has come to be one of its signature selling points). I personally find Swift a little too delicate and it shows marks from makeup etc far too easily for my liking. 

• Key characteristics – Classic fine grain, soft, smooth, matte finish, becomes slouchy over time
• Pros – Well suited to bold and vibrant colours
• Cons – Prone to scratches, can mark easily, not as durable as other options

Often confused with Box Calf and Swift, Tadelakt leather also has a smooth, glossy sheen. Despite the similarities, it’s actually shinier than Box Calf and doesn’t have a visible grained finish. It has a high colour absorption and a gorgeous structured feel so statement hues and Mini Kellys are well suited to this material (a great alternative if you don’t want a Mini Kelly in Epsom leather).

• Key characteristics – Glossy finish, structured, formal look
• Pros – Showcases colour well
• Cons – Prone to scratches, can more easily get damaged from water

A Hermès connoisseur favourite, Togo leather has a distinctive pebbled grain and is often confused with Clemence but it’s actually thinner and lighter. Its natural pebbled grain gives it a more casual look, which I think is more suited to Birkins and Kelly Retourne bags than the Kelly Sellier design.

• Key characteristics – Distinctive pebbled grain, matte finish, casual feel
• Pros – Less likely to show scratches, easy to care for, one of the most durable
• Cons – Will slouch over time

Similar to Epsom but with a softer feel, stamped (instead of heat-pressed) and with a much finer grain, Madame is a gorgeous structured leather that’s so well suited to structured bags like Retourne versions of the Kelly and Birkin. It’s a great alternative to Epsom if you love the structure, grainy look but want something a little less rigid.

• Key characteristics – Fine grain, slight sheen, formal look
• Pros – Lightweight, holds its shape well
• Cons – Not that scratch-resistant

Evercolor is that gorgeous sweet spot between a prominently grained leather like Togo, Clemence or Epsom and super-smooth and more formal looking options like Box. Evercolor has a tiny tight printed grain and a satin finish with a slight sheen which I think makes it best suit formal looks but it’s still lauded as one of the most versatile Hermès leathers out there. It was originally popular for small leather goods but now it’s earned itself a place as a favourite for two of Hermès’ most renowned bags – the Kelly and Constance. 

• Key characteristics – Tight grain, satin finish, versatile casual or semi-formal look
• Pros – Durable, soft and will soften more over time, scratch-resistant
• Cons – Can fade due to prolonged sunlight exposure

READ: Everything You Need to Know About The Hermès Kelly Pochette

Hermès exotic leathers are an entirely different game altogether. Exotic options are, of course, more rare and delicate. These incredibly precious skins justify a much higher price point whether buying new from the boutique or on the pre-loved market and are regarded as the pinnacle of Hermès luxury. There are the extraordinary finds like Birkins and Kellys made from Himalaya Niloticus Crocodile leather that are among the most expensive bags ever sold, along with Ombre Lizard and vintage favourite Ostrich.

One of the most lusted after Hermès exotic leathers, Alligator bags are quite simply … art. There is both Matte Alligator and Shiny (Lisse) Alligator available. Matte Alligator is one of the more delicate exotic leathers but in my opinion it’s also one of the most beautiful. I’ve been so incredibly fortunate to get my hands on a Matte Alligator version of the Kelly Pochette in the gorgeous Vert D’Eau hue and it most definitely has pride of place in my Hermès collection.

Similar to and often confused with Alligator leather, Crocodile also has a distinctively iconic look. There are three kinds of Crocodile leathers that Hermès uses – Niloticus, Porosus and Moreletii and these come in a mix of shiny and matte variations. Crocodile is amongst the very most expensive Hermès leathers and is incredibly hard to come by. 

Ostrich leather has such a classically vintage look. Hermès has used Ostrich leather for bags since the 1920s so this exotic material is linked to some of the rarest and most expensive vintage finds in the world. It’s a lot more durable than other Hermès vintage leathers, is water-resistant, and has a reputation for being incredibly long lasting.

I’ve been collecting Hermès bags for several years now so I developed a pretty good idea of what leathers work for me in my collection. It, of course, depends a lot on the bag, colour and crucially what I’m looking to add to my assortment of Hermès goodies, but I definitely have my selection of personal favourites, plus leathers I recommend for specific wants and needs. Epsom leather is, of course, one of my absolute favourites and Tadelakt is also great if you love the structured feel. For vintage and bags with a formal feel, Box Calf is such a special option that’s rich in Hermès history, and Togo is a great option for a more casual yet distinctively pebbled grain. And please … for the love of Hermès … don’t ask me to pick just one!

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