Michael Rider showed his debut Spring/Summer 2026 collection for Celine as the house’s Creative Director last month. Following in the footsteps of the legendary Phoebe Philo and Hedi Slimane, he had not one but two iconic designer legacies to live up to – potentially one of the most challenging feats in fashion these days. I was eagerly watching the show from afar along with every other eagle-eyed Celine fan … and boy, were we all in for a treat! Celine has always been that French cool girl brand that makes contemporary minimalism feel statement, and in the process, making the art of doing so look easy. Rider’s SS26 offering proved a clear sign that a new era at Celine has officially begun. 

The collection’s reception and so much of the chatter since has been focused on … you guessed it – THE BAGS. The clothes were French cool girl chic meets American preppy lore, so naturally the bags were sleek, practical and crafted with Parisian sensibility in mind. The collection’s bag offering was a love letter to the designs in Celine’s archive. Rider brought back the mighty Celine Phantom to the runway, the cool big sister of the Celine Luggage Tote and one of the most cult-worthy ‘It’ bags of the early 2010s. He, in addition, notably spotlighted the Celine Garance bag, a newer favourite added to the brand’s accessory ranks by Slimane for AW24. Rider’s choice of shape, proportions, structure and innovative takes on established bag styles also piqued my interest. So let’s get into exactly what I thought of all the bags that graced the runway! 

By now, we all know that bringing back a retro favourite is a sure way to strike gold with a collection and drive us bag fiends wild with excitement. But even so, the return of the Celine Phantom bag has caused such a stir that I’m equal parts shocked and smitten. This oversized style became an ‘It’ bag the first time around when Philo launched it in 2011 to act as the bigger, slouchier and slightly more edgy version of the already cult-favourite Celine Luggage Tote released the year prior. 

The original Celine Phantom is so often mistaken for the Luggage Tote because they look so similar. But Rider’s new interpretation is a little more elongated, with wider sides to give his Phantom its own more distinct look. He’s also curved the zip across the front to create the appearance of a smiling face for a fun novelty touch. Retro charm mixed with supersized practicality … I’m so in. The Celine Phantom doesn’t need to do anything else to convince me that it’s the ultimate carryall. I truly believe that it deserves a place up there with the likes of The Row Margaux and Bottega Veneta Andiamo as a contemporary tote you can use to carry everything. ADD. TO. CART. 

Plus, I also spotted a mini version of the style shown in black croc-print leather that’s perfect to obsess over if big bags aren’t your thing. The variation in sizes also signals that Rider’s Celine has big plans for the Phantom design.

Another fan favourite bag that’s worthy of our attention is the Celine Garance. It’s a pretty recent release in terms of the Celine archive and is an established newer classic for the brand. So its appearance on the runway was less of a shock than the returning Celine Phantom but still thrilling in its own way. With a structured boxy rectangular shape and sleek flap opening that displays Celine’s iconic Triomphe logo clasp, there’s a lot to love. 

I personally adore the design’s elongated shoulder strap and I think it really sets the Celine Garance apart from other structured flap bags out there. It’s a great alternative to the Hermès Constance (I feel like people don’t talk about this enough). Its appearance in the SS26 collection is a clear sign that Rider has no plans to abandon tried and true classics that have been working for the label in recent years. 

Now this section has me excited! Vanity bags have been popular for a while, with the likes of Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Bottega Veneta and many more spotlighting the style within their core bag offerings. But typically we’ve been seeing vanity bags in small sizes with a crossbody strap. Rider shook up this status quo by presenting vanity style bags with elongated shoulder straps clutched by hand or carried in the crook of the arm, and in a range of small, medium and slightly roomier sizes, too. In classic black leather, black croc print and Celine’s beloved monogram pattern, these bags felt vintage and minimalist. 

What would a runway show be these days without a slew of supersized totes making an appearance? An evergrowing staple of new collections, Rider was smart to give us fashion folk what we want in the form of oversized, slouchy, fuss-free totes. His designs came in classic neutral hues, plus eye-popping vibrant shades, and in Celine’s monogram pattern with the classic Triomphe insignia appearing in contrasting white which I absolutely loved. There were also matching pouch attachments to go with each (practical and very appealing for those of us who love to get the most from our investment). 

Speaking of practicality, Rider introduced messenger style bags that kind of looked like large, slouchy croissant-shaped designs. They came with a strap that was short enough to be carried on the shoulder but also long enough to wear crossbody, too (bonus points for versatility). I think that the classic Celine Triomphe logo clasp proved just the right amount of branding, while keeping the overall look and feel super minimalist, which is VERY Celine. 

The Celine Box bag is one of the brand’s most beloved designs, and styles like the Celine Garance also champion the beautiful simplicity of a boxy shape. So Rider understands the importance of a minimalist boxy design when it comes to Celine bags. In what felt like a true show of appreciation for this key trait that many of Celine’s most popular bags share, he showed several boxy designs. One structured wicker style adorned with CELINE in big black letters across the front felt super fun (and is the latest cool addition to my beach bag wishlist for next summer). While small and skinny rectangular options complete with long straps to sit comfortably on your shoulder presented a different take on the boxy silhouette. 

In the spirit of playing with different shapes, there was a flurry of triangular bags all with curved flap openings and chic top handles to make them feel super sophisticated. These rounded out Rider’s SS26 bag offering nicely. The large Phantom, supersized totes and messenger bags as the perfect carryalls; the Garance, vanity bags and boxy styles as compact everyday options, and these triangular top handles felt luxurious and primed for dressier ensembles. The white is very much calling out to become the next addition to my warm-weather bag rotation – because we all need a white bag for summer, right?? 

What did you think of the bags from Rider’s debut SS26 Celine collection? Which is your favourite?