Hermès Shoulder Birkin Review

“I start each collection thinking how I can refresh my classics,” Jean Paul Gaultier has famously said about his legendary time at the helm of Hermès. From enduringly popular clutch versions of the classic Hermès Kelly bag, to his groundbreaking So Black Collection that saw house icons given an edgy, gothic makeover. Gaultier’s approach to Hermès’ heritage designs has gone down in fashion history as among the most enthralling and talked-about acts of creativity within the luxury space. 

And now one of Gaultier’s retro signatures is having a comeback. Allow me to re-introduce you to the JPG Shoulder Birkin. Affectionately named to honour its creator, this bag was first released as part of Gaultier’s debut collection for Hermès in 2004. The famously polarising design, a rectangular-shaped shoulder bag version of the Birkin, is back and has earned its coveted status as an ‘It’ bag of the moment. And now it’s become one of the latest additions to my Hermès collection, in a gorgeously rich dark grey hue. So it’s time for a deep dive on this returning retro favourite. Think need-to-know design details (including all the updates the new Shoulder Birkin has undergone), plus comparisons with other Hermès shoulder bag designs and plenty more. Time to begin!

Gaultier’s time as Hermès’ Creative Director was nothing short of legendary. He garnered a reputation for playing with classic Hermès style codes while honouring the integrity of the house’s original legendary designs, and produced pieces that were artistically revered as well as commercially successful. The Shoulder Birkin bag is the perfect example of his ingenuity. At the time, it became a standout Hermès design known as the most casual Birkin bag – and we can all see why! It’s the only Birkin you can wear as a shoulder bag. The design changes the formula and function of the Birkin entirely (it was a revelation when first released and is proving just as much of a big deal now). 

The Shoulder Birkin was discontinued in 2013 and re-released in 2024. The reissue is a little more rigid than the original. A 29cm version popped up on the Hermès Spring/Summer 2025 runway, presenting a smaller take on the design. After its re-release last year, its demand has exploded, in part due to the ever-growing allure of the rectangular East-West bag silhouette. But perhaps more prominently the bag’s sudden flurry of popularity is as a result of us fashion fanatics’ continued fascination with uncovering retro styles (it holds a certain thrill which is undeniable). It just proves the power that a comeback can hold within fashion.

They are very different bags with completely different styles and purposes but, of course, the Shoulder Birkin encourages comparisons with the original. The Shoulder Birkin’s proportions look pretty dramatic but they’re not too different from a typical spacious shoulder bag. When first released, it was available in the sizes 40 and 42 (referring to the length in cm). The flap opening, sangles and touret turnlock closure are the same as the original Birkin so I feel that this sort of deceives your eye into thinking that the bag’s height should be the same as the original. The resulting look has a cropped effect that’s in stark contrast with the original shape. 

A huge aspect of the Shoulder Birkin’s popularity has always been its unique shape and structure. Shoulder bags are typically flat, tubular or have a simple rectangular boxy structure, but the Shoulder Birkin is boxy with accordion-style sides, just like the original top-handle tote design. This gives the Shoulder Birkin its unique slouch that folds easily and has an intriguing look we don’t typically see from bags, whether Hermès or otherwise. 

There are other Hermès designs that the Shoulder Birkin gets compared to, most notably shoulder bags. In fact, Gaultier also released a shoulder bag version of the iconic Kelly. The Shoulder Kelly is pretty similar to the Shoulder Birkin except it has a single strap, and, despite the similar design ethos behind the creation, it has never managed to obtain the Shoulder Birkin’s level of popularity. Other designs that draw obvious comparisons are the Hermès Kelly Elan and Constance Elan. Notably, both of these bags have a single shoulder strap and a boxy structure that gives each bag a flat shape that’s significantly less spacious than the Shoulder Birkin.

Even by Hermès standards, the Shoulder Birkin is a very rare bag that proves a mission to source. It’s available in the normal Hermès leathers you’d expect, as well as Doblis Suede, exotics like ostrich and shiny Porosus crocodile, plus denim and cord versions for a super casual take on the style. It’s definitely more attainable to bag a vintage version on the resale market but prices have soared since the design’s surge in popularity.

Now time for the rundown. The Shoulder Birkin is a truly special piece in Hermès’ handbag arsenal. It’s such a great addition because it genuinely offers something different compared to Hermès’ offering of shoulder bags that are typically more compact. I personally prefer the more rigid and structured look of the new re-release Shoulder Birkin but I still love the vintage version’s unique slouchy look. Needless to say, I can see why this bag is trending again.

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