Gucci’s Creative Director Sabato De Sarno’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection was all about creating an eternal summer feel. Mission accomplished because I never wanted the show to end. Swinging ‘60s optimism à la Jackie O, renewed love for the Rosso Ancora colour that’s become a De Sarno Gucci signature, and a triumph of all things so-called Casual Grandeur. It wasn’t just the optimism of summer days ahead, there was a real feeling in the air that something very exciting is going on at Gucci under De Sarno’s stewardship. 

This collection marks one year since the Italian visionary took the reins of one of fashion’s most coveted heritage labels. And it certainly felt like a celebration. He didn’t need to rely on gimmicks, instead choosing to focus on breathing new life into vintage silhouettes and playing with classic tropes of utility dressing. And, mi amor, the bags! We were introduced to a new bucket style and a soon-to-be mini favourite alongside fun interpretations of the classics. Plus, De Sarno brought sexy back in his own way, think Goddess dressing meets Tom Ford era Gucci. It was heavenly.

I had a fabulous time attending the show at the Triennale di Milano, dressed by the brand in the most gorgeous button-up jacket and shorts set, cinched in at the waist with a simple black leather belt featuring a small silver Gucci GG logo at the centre. Accessorised with my absolute favourite Gucci Jackie 1961 bag, plus statement cat-eye sunglasses in Rosso Ancora and shiny leather Horsebit boots in a similar rich burgundy hue. Let’s just say it was giving Gucci.

Now let’s take a look at my top five takeaways from the show.

You know you’re a style icon when Gucci names a bag after you. The Gucci Jackie bag is a house classic but for SS25, the former First Lady’s influence stretched further than this beloved accessory. Jackie O style could be spotted everywhere on the runway, from a lime green formal double-breasted coat with contrast khaki buttons and binding, to ‘60s-inspired A-line mini dresses and stiff boxy jackets with wide sleeves and cinched waists. Colourful prints incorporated the house’s classic Horsebit motif and wide-brimmed hats, especially as part of all white and black ensembles, channelled ‘60s summer soirées and beach getaways – the kind we’re all dreaming of come the warmer months.

Under Alessandro Michele, Gucci entered into a new era experimenting with more casual styles and was instrumental in streetwear’s inauguration into the coveted sphere of high fashion. Now under De Sarno, the label is continuing its commitment to casual and comfortable silhouettes, with a focus on that signature Gucci sleekness that fans of the brand have been longing for. Statement sweeping Gucci monogram coats felt casual, wearable and (most importantly of all) unbelievably cool when paired with slouchy jeans, simple tanks, bandannas, gold cuff chokers and the house’s classic big sunglasses. Plus, we saw leather biker jackets, tops and skirts with zipped slits that brought plenty of edge, and simple co-ords in gorgeous summery hues.

Fashion always seems to have an ‘It’ colour. And there’s no confusion over the coveted shade of the moment. Gucci’s Rosso Ancora is the rich burgundy hue we’ve seen everywhere. De Sarno has established its seasonless appeal and it’s already regarded as a hallmark of his Gucci tenure. For his SS25 show, the runway itself was Rosso Ancora coloured to fully set the scene for this shade’s continued dominance. We saw a slew of head-to-toe Rosso Ancora looks, from sheer dresses with gold hardware, plus lace and leather styles, to relaxed shirt and trouser pairings with belts to match.

READ: BURGUNDY EDIT – OUTFIT INSPIRATION

So-called Goddess dressing has scored big this season, with floaty sheer dresses and ethereal-esque draping proving popular on the New York and London runways. At Gucci, this kind of other worldly styling was given a sultry edge thanks to slinky dresses with chunky gold hardware details finished with a bamboo-effect that nodded to the famous Gucci Bamboo bag. Plus simple maxi dresses in a choice of black or white with subtly sensual side splits and soft draping at the back.

Gucci bags in all shapes and styles, always glorious and always a good idea. And the SS25 collection was certainly not in short supply. Beloved classics like the Gucci Bamboo and Jackie were presented in De Sarno’s signature Rosso Ancora and lime green colours. Plus variations with sparkly fringe details, colourful Horsebit motif prints matching outfits and monochrome styles including a zebra print option. There were also sleek oblong clutches, a mini version of the recently released Gucci B bag (set to be my next favourite) and a new bucket bag with enlarged Horsebit buckle detailing.

So to round up, there was a lot to love about Gucci SS25. As always, it proved a standout show of Milan Fashion Week, further consolidating De Sarno’s success at establishing a slew of his own house signatures for the heritage label. The clothes championed the appeal of casual-focused dressing through the lens of dreamy ’60s coastal living that we could all do with envisioning right now. Oh, and how I’m looking forward to wearing these whimsical hues and prints next summer. 

More of my runway takeaways and MFW content are coming soon so stay tuned. And be sure to check out my MFW Vlog.

READ MORE FASHION WEEK CONTENT:

MY 5 TAKEAWAYS FROM PRADA SS25

7 TRENDS TO KNOW FROM LFW SS25

LFW OUTFIT DIARY 

7 TRENDS TO KNOW FROM NYFW SS25

NYFW OUTFIT DIARY 

xoxo, Tamara

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